If you're shortening a longer wrap, measure the length you want the shorty to be (plus as much as you need for the hems) on each rail, then mark those two points:
Sometimes, you may find just the right wrap, but it's too long for you; or you've bought a very long wrap, want to make a ring sling from part of it, and have a shorty wrap for the other part. Or you've bought fabric and want to add tapers, but aren't sure how to cut them so they're straight. (To cut the straight-across piece for a ring sling or other use, see my Wrap Cutting Instructions.)
Taper depth -- that's the difference in between the pointy, acute-angle end of the taper and the obtuse angle on the other edge -- is pretty variable among wrap manufacturers. They range from straight across (like Easycare) to a whopping 24" (Ellevill). Personally, I find 8-10" is a good depth. In the photos below, the original wrap (Oscha braids) has a 6" taper depth, so that's what is shown. To get this taper depth, I've simply marked 6" from the raw edge on one side of the wrap. If you were making your own tapers, you would do this twice, being sure to make a parallelogram like this /======/ and not a rhombus like this: /======\
Fold between one corner and the marked taper depth measurement.
If you're shortening a longer wrap, measure the length you want the shorty to be (plus as much as you need for the hems) on each rail, then mark those two points:
For both, fold along the resultant line and press.
Cut along pressed line. I usually cut while it's folded, but you can unfold it if you prefer.
Press up *twice* the desired finished width of your hem. E.g. if you want a 0.5" hem, press up 1".
To make a neat corner on the acute angle side, fold a triangle over, meeting the fold line you just pressed.
Fold the raw edge down over the triangle.
Pin in place (this is just showing the corner, mostly).
When you go to sew the hem, lower your needle into the fabric and remember to backtack. You can remove the pin or leave it in, depending on how finicky your machine is. You can pin the whole hem before you sew, but I usually just fold as I go. If you prefer the latter, sew a couple of inches, then fold more of the raw edge under, so that it meets the pressed fold.
New hem vs. old hem. I don't actually remember which one is which, though I think mine is on the right? Just to show that it can be pretty hard to tell.
