The ring sling/wrap carrier standard went into effect January 30, 2018. The standard mandates periodic (annual) testing of slings and wraps (tests costing between $350-500+ per item), and what that means is that I can't sell anything that hasn't been tested with my shoulder designs. My in-stock slings all comply, but since there are so many wrap brands and blends, I can't realistically test even a small proportion of what my customers have sent in the past. I am no longer able to accept customers' used wraps for conversion regardless of the brand (nor can any other compliant seamstress, regardless what they call their business model).

New, unused, unwashed Tekhni cotton/Repreve blends, and, with a gathered shoulder, Girasol broken twill weave (but not diamond weave) will be the sole exceptions so far. I welcome partnerships with other manufacturers or retailers, if they would like to split testing costs on their wrap brand; if there's a brand you'd like to see available for conversions by SBP, please consider contacting them and making the suggestion.

I cannot make exceptions, because this is the law and I will not jeopardize my business by breaking it. This is a huge change for the ring sling community, and I understand it's a difficult one for many,but it's been a long time coming and should increase the safety of the industry.

I can no longer convert anything but Tekhni Repreve blend wraps (with a pleated or Eesti shoulder), or Girasol standard-weight broken twill (with a gathered shoulder) due to the testing regulations now in place. The information below is for your reference only, if you want to sew your own. If I am able to work with other manufacturers to test wraps for sewing with my designs, I will do so, and will add them here as appropriate.

 There are two main categories of wraps: woven (where the threads are in some kind of over/under pattern, whether simple or complex) and knit (where the fabric  is made like t-shirt fabric -- similar to the way sweaters are made, but smaller in scale). In general, woven wraps are more supportive than knit wraps. Most  common knit wraps (like Moby and Sleepy wraps) are not suitable to be turned into slings, because of the amount of stretch and the tendency for them to be  on the narrower side. I have slingified Wrapsody Bali Stretch wraps, but would not recommend a pleated shoulder with these due to the damage the needle can  do to the fabric when it punches through so many layers -- a gathered shoulder would be a better choice for those. I do not recommend turning Wrapsody Bali Breeze wraps into single-layer ring slings, because gauze does not hold a weight-bearing seam well.

Woven wraps vary in their width, weight, and the number of threads per inch. Unlike bedsheets, a lower thread count is desirable in a sling, because it willhave more "give" and be more comfortable; since most woven wraps have a fairly low thread count, they make lovely slings. Generally speaking, if you can do a comfortable single-layer carry in a wrap, it will be fine for a ring sling.

I am no longer able to convert handwoven wraps due to testing regulations. The sole exception is Ethos all-cotton handwovens, sewn with an Eesti shoulder and extra-large aluminum sling rings.

No, I have not tested my shoulder designs/sewing with any tablecloths. However, it's a great DIY project, so please check out my sling sewing directions.

>This calculator is solely for long wraps that will be split into two carriers. If you are having only a single sling made, please see "How long of a piece do I need to send you to have it made into a sling?" below. For all calculations, please keep in mind that the result is approximate -- the actual length of a wrap can vary from the stated length. Measurement of sling sizes is from the center of the taper, not on the long or short edges.

If you're trying to figure out what length wrap to buy to make two ring slings, leave the "length of wrap in centimeters" field blank, and the calculator will tell you how long the wrap needs to be for the two slings. I'm afraid that doesn't work for a sling and shorty split, but you can use the "1 sling/1 short wrap" selector to find out how long you need for the sling, and then you can add the shorty length you're hoping for to that number.

This calculator will allow you to figure out what size sling I would recommend for you, and then use that to show how long a piece I will need to make the sling you want. Select options on both halves first, then hit "calculate length" If you want to make changes to your answers, be sure to click "calculate length" each time for an updated estimate.

"Depth of taper" refers to the difference between the long and short sides of the wrap, on one end of the wrap. The sling length is calculated from the center of the taper, so with deeply-tapered wraps, a medium (75") sling could have a short edge that's 63" long and a long edge that's 87" long. Please keep this in mind if you're using a wrap with very deep tapers, as it's best for the taper *not* to end up in the rings. In the image below, you can see how the remaining wrap piece is cut. So if you have a 470cm wrap and I cut it to make a size small sling (using 206cm, measured from the center of the taper), the remaining shorty will be less than 264cm because of the taper depth. 

For your DIY reference, Ellaroos are straight across with fringe and Easycares are straight across, for a 0" taper; BBSlens and Natibaby wraps have a 4-5" taper; Oscha tends to be between 4-6"; Hoppediz are about 5"; Didymos are between 7-10" depending on the weave; Girasols and Dolcinos are generally 8"; Storchenweige, Pavo, and Lenny Lamb wraps are 10"; Kokadis are 16-18"; Ellevills are upwards of 24". 

I cannot convert wraps unless they are made by Tekhni, Repreve blend, or Girasol broken twill (which I can do with a gathered shoulder), and are new and unwashed. You can still split a Tekhni or Girasol wrap for a WCRS, but keep those factors in mind.I have a form you can send to the person you're buying the piece from. The file includes a cutting diagram and the other information the seller will need to ensure the piece is cut and mailed correctly. Save this PDF file to your computer, and open it with Adobe Reader. When you've finished filling out the fields, save the file, then click the little envelope in the toolbar at the top to email the completed file directly to the seller (although I would recommend emailing it to yourself first to make sure the fields are actually completed). The seller can include a printout of the worksheet with the wrap piece if she would like to, but it's not strictly necessary if you've already placed your order with me. The form does not replace the order you place on my site -- it's meant to help the seller correctly cut the wrap piece.

The form should help a lot, but if you choose not to use it, here's what you and the seller need to know. First, make sure the piece you're buying will actually end up being the length you want. Many sellers will measure a wrap piece along the long taper. That's fine for an actual wrap where both sides will be the same length, but when having the piece made into a sling by me, it's not the measurement that counts. I assign sizes by the length at the center of the taper (as shown in the diagram above, under "depth of taper" question). For example, if you're buying a piece that the seller says is 75" long so that you can have a size small sling, find out if that's on the long taper, short taper, or in the center. If it's along the long taper, the sling will actually be much shorter than a small when it's finished (depending on the taper depth). The other thing that happens sometimes is that the piece will be cut on a taper, especially if the original wrap has been chopped to make a shorter wrap. In that case, if they measure along one full rail (and not from the shorter edge where the piece was cut), the piece will actually be shorter than stated by the entire taper depth, since the new cut taper has to be removed to make a straight edge for sewing in the rings.

The second issue is detailed below in the pattern orientation section. If the piece you're buying is from a wrap with an asymmetrical element (like animals, scenery, or stripes), find out which way it's oriented. Below, the smiley faces can be right side up or upside down depending on which side of the wrap was cut, and if it was cut opposite your preference, it will have to be flipped right-side or inside-out to get the orientation you want.Third, as with any second-hand purchase, make sure everything is disclosed that should be -- broken threads, weaving flaws, stains, weaknesses in the fabric, etc. I have gotten wraps with lots of animal hair, wraps with broken threads, food stains, odd smells, and a host of other peculiarities, and all I can say is that none of those things are picked up here (we have no pets, my studio is kept clean and food-free, and I take the pieces out of their original bags only long enough to sew and re-package them), so if they're on your wrap when it gets to your house, contact the seller for details.

If you hover your mouse or tap your finger over the little [i] next to each option, a description of the options will pop up.

If you are ordering a wrap specifically for a conversion, you may have it sent directly to me. Please place your order so that I have your information before the wrap arrives -- it's much easier for me than trying to track people down when the wrap gets here. If your wrap is a preorder, I would recommend waiting until you receive shipping confirmation from the seller before you place an order; otherwise, the wait can be quite long, and I can only do full refunds within 60 days of purchase on my store.

Please address packages as follows:
  [Recipient's Name, if different from sender's name]
  C/O Jan Heirtzler, sleeping baby productions
  12 Davis Ave.
  Durham, NH 03824-1940

If you are sending a wrap to me to be split with another person and the finished slings will be sent to two different addresses, please place two separate orders (usually, each person places her own order) -- shipping is calculated based on the weight, so if two are included in the same order, there's not enough shipping paid to ship to two addresses, and I have to invoice for the additional costs. If both pieces are being sent back to you, a single order is all that's necessary (but do make sure you add two conversions to your cart or I'll have to invoice for the second).

If I will be hemming/converting both sides, please do not cut the wrap before sending it. It is generally more difficult for me to work with already-cut wraps. There may not be enough continuous length for the accessories that have been ordered, and often, cuts are made at an extreme taper, which changes the usable length and may make the piece too short for the buyer's requested size. This doesn't apply if you are splitting it and not sending both pieces to me -- only if I'll be sewing with both pieces. However, if you will be cutting the wrap before sending me a piece, please take a moment to read through my wrap cutting directions -- this makes a nice, even cut, and while it takes a bit longer than just eyeballing the cut, it's a lot easier to work with! 

If you want your wrap split into two ring slings and both are being sent back to you (or to a single address), you can use the "quantity" box below the options to add two to your cart, if the options are the same on both. If you want different things done to each sling, add one with its options to your cart, then click "back" a couple of times and add the second sling with its options to your cart, then complete your order. If they are being sent to two separate addresses, however, please place two separate orders, because shipping is calculated on a per-order basis, and if you add two slings to your cart and request that the second be sent to another address, I need to invoice for the additional shipping and the process creates a lot of extra work for me.

Most wraps require large diameter rings -- 3" and above. Anything smaller, and the fabric just won't budge when you try to adjust it. Please keep this in mind when ordering, or if you plan to send your own rings. I would not recommend nylon rings with the majority of woven wraps; they are much more bulky than aluminum rings, and combined with the weight of the fabric, they make a really big lump when worn.

Sort of. With Girasols (where what I've tested requires that I use a gathered shoulder), the raw edge is turned under and the tags are sewn at the side of the sling (so they can be hidden in the shoulder folds when worn). However, most Tekhni wraps cause a real strain on my machine with so many layers, and I've sent my good machine into the shop for repairs trying to get through all the layers, so I can't do a reversible shoulder on those wraps. Because of the number and thickness of folds on the Signature and retro SBP pleats, I can't do those reversible at all. All non-reversible slings have a serged edge, so it won't unravel or look untidy. This is also less bulky and makes for more comfortable wearing than having a turned-under edge. Also keep in mind that the large safety label is required to be sewn onto all slings, and it will show if the sling is reversed.

I worked with Meeyoo to sew and test Girasol broken twill weave wraps with a standard gathered shoulder, so any Girasol (broken twill) WCRS must be done only with a gathered shoulder. I have tested only pleats and Eesti hybrid with Tekhni Repreve blend wraps, so either of those can be used with a Tekhni WCRS, but gathered is not available on Tekhni WCRS.