Inset pockets are less confusing than I used to think they were -- then again, the method I use is a simplified one. However, it works for me, and it may work for you, too!
First, find and mark the position where you would like the zippered pocket to lie on the sling (or garment). This should be on the right side of the fabric. You can also put a strip of interfacing on the *wrong* side of the fabric at that position, to make the opening a little sturdier. Next, place and pin the pocket fabric so that its center is just a bit above that position. It doesn't matter quite as much whe ther you have the right or wrong side up, since it won't be seen when the pocket is closed, but it's a nice touch to have the right side seen when it's open. Sew a narrow rectangle that's just a little bit wider than your zipper. |
Carefully cut a line through both fabrics within the rectangle, as shown at right, with diagonal cuts towards the corners. The closer you can get to the stitching, the neater the pocket's finished appearance will be. Turn the pocket towards the inside, through the opening. You may want to press at this stage, so that the opening is neat and professional looking. |
I usually just topstitch the zipper into place. There may be another way to do it, but I am not aware of it. It's a little bit tricky, but with some strategically placed pins, it's not too bad. Just be careful you're not sewing through the pocket part except around the opening! |
To sew the pocket bag, turn your work over. Line up the edges of the pocket piece (here's why the center of the piece was just above the position for the opening), then sew around. You'll want this seam to be fairly sturdy, to keep holes from opening up. |
That's it -- you're done! It's not as fancy as a welt or lipped pocket, but it works.